I'm looking for an HDTV, help me in my endeavor.

[Captain Highwind]

So after reading this, and my personal decisions, I've decided the best route to go is:

32" which means 720p (not 1080p)
$400-500 range
LED Backlighting
PC accessible
3-4 HDMI/HD ports (3's fine, since at the most I would just have a 360 and PS3 hooked up to it at any time)
ATSC Tuner (this is a plus, but I'm really just going to use it for gaming and Blu-ray)

(Haven't really seen anything that boasts 120Hz or 240Hz in their specs)

So far I've found these, but out of them, it seems people are reluctant to buy RCA:

RCA
Really nice price; not so sure about RCA's short warranties and the fact that people are complaining about dark picture quality

Samsung
Seems to have a good warranty, some complain about the audio, which concerns me.

Sony
The first one that caught my eye, has a matte finish, and is 40 off the price. Hmm....

Are there any good brands I'm missing? Any TVs that people want to recommend? Is 720p enough to actually read text on my PS3? Lulz

[Temple Fugate]

Samsung is a very reliable brand, though I don't know anything about their sound capability myself. Ideally you'd want a good speaker system to use in tandem with the television, negating the need for tv speakers. I know two friends with Toshibas, and they function perfectly. If I were to buy myself an HDTV, those are the two brands I would consider the most.

Don't discount component inputs. (the red/green/blue jacks) If it's got HDMI, it's got component too, but it depends how many. If you find a set you like, but it only has 2 HDMIs, but it's got a few components, it's an acceptable compromise. We've got our HD cable box hooked into my roommate's HDTV with components and I can't tell it's not an HDMI connection.

As for video games, LCD/LED is definitely the way to go. Plasmas start to develop temporary burn-in after being on for only an hour. ("Temporary" as in once the on-screen graphics finally go away, their lingering ghosts will stick around for a half hour or more if the TV stays on.) 720p at the size you're looking for will still be fine for text, although with some games you may need to sit closer to the TV to read everything.

[SpongeJosh]

I heard good things about LG so I picked up a 32" 1080p HDTV on sale at Best Buy for $529. So far its been good to me. It has 3 HDMI inputs, 1 component, 1 composite, 1 USB, 1 DVI, and 1 RGB PC. The overall specs are pretty good for the price. The speakers could be a bit better, but I plan on getting a nice surround system once I get a PS3 so they'll do for now. So if you can find a cheap 32" 1080p I'd suggest it, because the resolution only matters for games and blu-ray and that seems to be what you'll be using it for. Good luck!

[Lord Dalek]

Our Sharp Aquous 46" works fine for my family, aside from the usual artifacts resulting from the overcompression used when creating the ATSC broadcast signal.

[Bird Boy]

I'm not entirely sure you'll be able to find an LED backlit TV for that price. I just did a spot check on amazon and they range from $800 - $1000 for an LED, since the tech is still fairly new.

Keep in mind that while your TV may support only 720p, most TVs can take a 1080i signal as well, which will make text easier/clearer to read in some video games. You're still essentially getting the same resolution out of the TV, but the overall image quality will be better because it's taking a larger image and going smaller, rather than taking a smaller image and going larger (as most 720p sets are actually 768p).

As for plasma, most of the burn in issues that were an issue before aren't really as prevalent now. You still have to worry about burn in, but my brother bought a 50" Samsung Plasma (for under $900. From Best Buy. Crazy.) and we played video games and whatnot on it for several hours and it was all fine. You just got to be careful with static images, but you kind of have to watch that on LCDs too.

As for the brands you listed, I'd go with Samsung. I love their sets and image quality. If you find the speakers to be too tinny (as most speakers in TV sets are), you can always hook an external set up to it (many TV sets have RCA or Optical outs). On the other hand if you're getting a PS3 Slim to go with this new set, I'd get a Sony TV from the Bravia line if you can make the increased price work, as the Bravia link will enable some nice PS3 features, such as dual shut off (shut off the TV, so does the PS3).

-BB

[Michael24]

Originally Posted by Temple Fugate

As for video games, LCD/LED is definitely the way to go. Plasmas start to develop temporary burn-in after being on for only an hour. ("Temporary" as in once the on-screen graphics finally go away, their lingering ghosts will stick around for a half hour or more if the TV stays on.)

I asked a guy at Best Buy about that awhile back, if plasma screens and video games were a bad mix, and he said burn-in would only occur if you left a game paused for a very very long time, and that an average amount of gameplay would do no harm. (I think he also said something about some TVs having a feature that will darken the screen a bit if an image is static for a certain period of time.)

[Mynd Hed]

Originally Posted by Temple Fugate

Don't discount component inputs. (the red/green/blue jacks) If it's got HDMI, it's got component too, but it depends how many. If you find a set you like, but it only has 2 HDMIs, but it's got a few components, it's an acceptable compromise. We've got our HD cable box hooked into my roommate's HDTV with components and I can't tell it's not an HDMI connection.

Good point. At 32" and 720p, you're not going to notice much difference between a component and an HDMI connection, but there are lots of things that support component that don't support HDMI, like the Wii and older consoles. I'd consider two of each to be a bare minimum.

As a couple of folks have mentioned, an audio out jack is also a necessity. Built-in TV speakers are always going to be inferior to a dedicated external system, and even if you don't intend to spend the money for that right away, you definitely won't regret keeping your upgrade options open for the future.

Since you mentioned connecting a PC to your TV, a DVI port is the best way to do that. Most modern HDTVs should have one, but even if the model you're looking at doesn't, you can get a DVI-to-HDMI adapter without too much trouble, so that's always an option, too. Just make sure to include the fact that an HDMI port will be tied up in that in your mental calculations of how many ports you'll need.

Of the three brands you mention, I've never had much experience with RCA. Samsung and Sony are both good brands. In general, I find that Samsung strikes a better compromise between price and quality/features, but that's just a general statement. You should definitely do some research into the specific models you're looking at, too.

[Matt Hazuda]

Originally Posted by Mynd Hed

Since you mentioned connecting a PC to your TV, a DVI port is the best way to do that. Most modern HDTVs should have one, but even if the model you're looking at doesn't, you can get a DVI-to-HDMI adapter without too much trouble, so that's always an option, too. Just make sure to include the fact that an HDMI port will be tied up in that in your mental calculations of how many ports you'll need.

Gonna have to say I've noticed the opposite. Most modern HDTVs have shifted away from DVI ports and back to VGA inputs. Makes it simple to hook up a laptop, PC or even something like a Dreamcast

[Bird Boy]

Originally Posted by Matt Hazuda

Gonna have to say I've noticed the opposite. Most modern HDTVs have shifted away from DVI ports and back to VGA inputs. Makes it simple to hook up a laptop, PC or even something like a Dreamcast

I had one of those. Nice little device (the VGA Box for the DC).

And yeah, I haven't seen a DVI port on TVs in ages. Which blows because VGA is rather dated, but like Mynd said anyway you can turn an HDMI into a DVI port very easily.

-BB

[Shawn Hopkins]

I have this Samsung and I love it more than is probably healthy.

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-LN32A4...2458477&sr=8-1

It's a great TV that meets most of your requirements (except LED backlighting, which you probably won't find in your price range). Excellent picture and good blacks for the price.

The sound isn't the greatest, but it's acceptable, I live in an upstairs apartment so I can't really have a bass-heavy surround sound system and have to use the speakers and they've been okay for my purposes. This Samsung is like a lot of TVs in that it only has HDMI and VGA inputs. If you have a really new computer with HDMI you're good to go, if you have VGA you need an extra cable for audio. I bought a cable that allowed me to hook my laptop's headphone jack to my TV.

This TV has a nice feature called Just Scan, which basically eliminates overscan so you can see the whole picture. I think it makes the picture look even sharper, because without Just Scan it seems to blow it up a bit to account for overscan.

Anyway, that's what I went with. You don't have to go with the same thing but I will say you might do well with a Samsung.

[defunctzombie]

Originally Posted by Bird Boy

Keep in mind that while your TV may support only 720p, most TVs can take a 1080i signal as well, which will make text easier/clearer to read in some video games. You're still essentially getting the same resolution out of the TV, but the overall image quality will be better because it's taking a larger image and going smaller, rather than taking a smaller image and going larger (as most 720p sets are actually 768p).

So you're saying that I should set my BD and 360 to 1080i instead of 720p?

[Mynd Hed]

Originally Posted by Shawn Hopkins

...This Samsung is like a lot of TVs in that it only has HDMI and VGA inputs.

According to the product info on the Amazon page you listed, it has 3 HDMI, 2 component, 1 "A/V" (by which I assume they mean composite), 1 S-Video, and 1 "PC D-sub" (which I assume means VGA).

I've never seen a TV that has ONLY HDMI and VGA inputs.

[Shawn Hopkins]

Originally Posted by Mynd Hed

According to the product info on the Amazon page you listed, it has 3 HDMI, 2 component, 1 "A/V" (by which I assume they mean composite), 1 S-Video, and 1 "PC D-sub" (which I assume means VGA).

I've never seen a TV that has ONLY HDMI and VGA inputs.

PC D-sub is in fact VGA. What I meant there was that it only has HDMI and VGA "for connecting a PC." I thought that was clear from the context and the fact that I mentioned computers in the next breath, but I guess I should have spelled it out.

At any rate, I just mistyped. You haven't caught me in an outrageous lie about my TV.

Defunctzombie, I actually set my PS3 to 1080p even though I have a 720p TV. I think it makes things look a bit sharper. I have to switch it back for some cartoons, though, because it does create a line shadowing effect that's comparable to having your sharpness turned too high. Not that noticeable on live action but really annoying on my What's New Scooby Doo? DVDs.

[Bird Boy]

Originally Posted by defunctzombie

So you're saying that I should set my BD and 360 to 1080i instead of 720p?

If your set supports it, yeah. It's pretty easy to check to see if there's a visual clarity boost. Get a hi-res JPEG and look at it on the PS3 and zoom in on it so it fills the screen. If your TV is good at scaling then it should make an image at 1080i look exceptionally better than 720p.

If it doesn't look great, you can always switch it back.

Originally Posted by Shawn Hopkins

Defunctzombie, I actually set my PS3 to 1080p even though I have a 720p TV. I think it makes things look a bit sharper. I have to switch it back for some cartoons, though, because it does create a line shadowing effect that's comparable to having your sharpness turned too high. Not that noticeable on live action but really annoying on my What's New Scooby Doo? DVDs.

Yeah some TVs accept full 1080p signals even if it "maxes" out at 1080i. My TV is 720p only but it actually displays 1080p up in the corner with the PS3, as if it was a full HD set. It makes me feel better about buying a budget set on Black Friday. Though I'm sure your Sammy blows my Olevia out of the water (though I did find out I had an LG manufactured panel in my Olevia, which was kind of a nice surprise).

Haven't noticed the shadowing effect on my set though. Strange.

One of these days I'll just go for a 60" plasma and be done with it. Or buy a really bad ass projector, one or the other.

-BB

[defunctzombie]

I have an Insignia, which is slang for who knows. My remote code was Broksonic/Sansui/Zenith though, so that narrows it down. It's smaller than the Dynex BB was also selling, but it has built in dvd and a shiny black finish. Good enough for me.

I was under the impression that 1080 looks the same as 720 on a 26 inch television. Is that correct?

[Mynd Hed]

Originally Posted by Shawn Hopkins

What I meant there was that it only has HDMI and VGA "for connecting a PC."

Ah, that would make more sense. (-:

[cohenmarioman]

My Sony Bravia was around 700 or so. It had the same specs as your wants, but only slightly better, like it is a Bravia, and has 2 HDTV ports on theback, for PS3 and 360, and 2 HDMI cables, and 2 regular "Red yellow white" slots. Maybe that is why it is so much. I only use one slot, but could use all of them, it has around 4 component channels, and 2 video channels.

[Beefy]

They do make 32" 1080p TVs, so go for 1080p if you can, but it really just depends how far away you will be sitting from the screen.

All TVs made after 2005 should include an ATSC tuner.

I have a 40" Samsung LCD from 2005. It only has a 6000:1 contrast ratio and runs at 60Hz, but the black levels are great and I've never had a problem with motion blur. The colors are vivid and with the brightness only turned up to 40% it's plenty bright.

Some people would argue that 120Hz and 240Hz are expensive solutions for a problem that was never really there. Some video can even look worse with the higher refresh rate because they add frames.